So Many Things

More post-script: Living in a suitcase for two months I had forgotten how many things there are in the house. Toys everywhere. I just want to get a shovel and throw it out. The basement is full of stuff too.

The weather has been OK but in the afternoon there was a thundershower.

Alice played her first soccer game with the team today- Lund Football Association. It looked confused. Sometimes everybody was chasing the ball, sometimes they were everywhere. Suddenly they had won with 2-1.

Life in the West

I suppose I have to start writing some kind of post script? Things snappped into normal yesterday when the kids started the fall semester in school. Esbjörn took the step from pre-school to elementary school. Usually he is rather AVVAKTANDE in new environments but that day he surprised us all by being unusally happy and social. The children sat in a ring stating their names one by one. Most of them were very shy, and one girl even cried. But when it was Esbjörn's turn he exclaimed that he would not state his name but his nick-name "Racer-Max", and everybody started to laugh. I have no idea why he said that. Racer-Max is a character in a children's movie called "Spy Kids Game Over". After that the teachers asked the children about their summer activities and Esbjörn said that he had been to India and stayed at a luxury hotel. So that will be his story. Alice went to football practice yesterday. They have a game on Saturday. She did not seem to have any problem getting back together with her friends.

Thupten emailed me from Bangalore as he had returned early from Germany. "Nothing much to do after staying one month there. Everybody's going on with their own work. That is life in west", he wrote. Yes, it's probably true and this is perhaps one of the things that we will miss from India.

Long Road Back to Lund

Back home again after 70 days in southern India. It was a long trip home. We had to get up at 2.45 in the morning to drive to the airport. There was a long line outside (!) the terminal for the initial security check, and an attached conintgent of rich Indians trying to bribe their way to the front. Had I known what would happen during this summer (bombs, threats of terror) and the consequences for air travel to and from the UK I would never have booked British Airways. But most people stood patiently in line and eventually we made it inside. The check-in was congested too with the airline strictly enforcing baggage restrictions. Many of the passengers were NRIs (Non Resident Indians living abroad) going back to the US and the UK after their summer vacation, their bags filled with cheap Indian goods (and maybe gods?). Many had to repack and some even had to dump part of their stuff at the airport. A heyday for the airport staff! After another security check we were inside but the departure was delayed for more than an hour. Someone had run a truck into the aircraft before it left Heathrow and they had to bring the big X-ray maxchine to scan for hidden cracks. At about that time Alice came down with some stomach sickness and she more or less barfed and slept through the flight. I suffered next to a girl who was coughing badly and jumping around her seat. After about ten hours we landed at Heathrow with 30 minutes to get on our next flight. The airport was totally congested with extra security checks but we managed to slip into the fast track line. Contrary to the information given by British Airways they were enforcing the new carry on baggage restrictions. Whatever we were carrying had to fit into a narrow wooden box conspicuously placed before the X-ray machine. If the bag didn't fit its owner had to turn back and get it checked in. But we had no time for that. I quickly distributed some stuff in the childrens backpacks and crammed my bag (2 laptops and all) into the box while and whipeed it into the machine. In the security check at Bangalore Airport they confiscated our three bottles of Pepsi. Now they took our two small bottles of water and a pen sharpener. The big water bottle slipped through though. Having cleared the security check we sprinted across the terminal, overtaking a team of policemen, and managed to get on the plane five minutes before departure. As it turned out we had to wait for some time as the policemen were checking the terminal for a runaway criminal. Two policemen searched the cabin, taking the opportunity to scrutinize the passport of a Pakistani looking young man. It's a weird world these days. He looked perfectly normal. Why didn't they check the crazy looking European guy that travelled in a traditional Tibetan khampa outfit? After another two hours we landed in Copenhagen. Of course, our bags were left behind somewhere on Heathrow. But it was actually a releif not to have to carry them home. We got on the train and about 45 minutes later we were in Lund. The house looked fine as did the car (and it worked too). I had to update the satellite access and restart the network gear. The kids ran around squeezing their toys, and Esbjörn tried his Playstation. The jet-lag was not a problem since it only felt as a very long day. I went to bed at my usual time and woke up about 7 the next morning (today). To be honest, when I smelled the smells of the Swedish summer, especially the way a shower of rain brings them out, it felt strange to know it was almost over and we missed it.

Baggage Restrictions

After Chennai Bangalore actually feels almost pleasant. The hotel is very good too, although the waiters in the restaurant trip over each other trying to help us at the table. The service is only one step away from mouth feeding. Did the cottage emporium tour today, but only after another lunch visit to McDonalds. This time in the famous Forum mall in Koromangala. Prices in the private emporiums were ridiculously Kashmiri. We could only find prices set for ordinary humans in the state cottage emporium on M G Rd. The way the shopping was developing I had to check British Airways' baggage restrictions. We have already changed the old blue faithful for a new Samsonite "Going to the US?" biggie. I bought the blue in NYC back in 1983 but had to sacrify this sentimental item. Now we're looking for a big soft bag. Together we can carry 92 kilos plus four cabin baggage items that I can stuff into the baggage rack without help. Should be enough.

Alice's ear has improved a lot after we started with the ear drop treatment. It doesn't seem to hurt anymore.

Some sceptic readers of this blog has asked for hard evidence of Anna's alleged swimming so I'm posting a photo of her in the pool at Ideal Beach Resort. She also took a dip in the pool at Sea Breeze, I might add.

Shop 'til You Drop

Life in the Monolith is elevated, cool and quiet. Congested Chennai disappears in its own haze. Back to Spencer Plaza to execute the shopping plan and a chaotic lunch in a food court somewhere in the maze of shops. Power Ranger toys all over the shelves. How could he choose? Tsering joined us and we went back to our hotel again. The display in Anna's laptop is broken, or at least its no longer showing anything useful. Tomorrow morning we are catching the 6 am train to Bangalore. Things are looking promising with flights from Heathrow again.

Stone Village

Drove back to Chennai today. It's quite a change from the dusty roads of Mamallapuram. Now we're up on the ninth floor of a 4-star (www.grthotels.com) with views over the western part of town and WiFi.

The comfort of Ideal Beach Resort, where we stayed the first time we were in Mamallapuram, was pretty hard to beat in the village itself. Things improved a lot after we found a nice, low-key Franco-Indian restaurant away from the tourist ghetto that was responsive to Esbjorn's diet demands. It was easy to spend hours there playing games and relaxing. Our room in Sea Breeze Annexe was OK and included free access to the big swimming pool at the main hotel. Alice and Esbjorn went stone shopping in this mother of all stone carving villages in the sub-continent. There are guys in every nook and corner chiselling away on everything from large temple statues to chillums. Street sellers chase you around with necklaces trying to persuade you to do "small business".

I went to check out the fishing village where new concrete houses were being built as part of the post Tsunami rehabilitation. I spoke to a guy and it seemed like things were developing better here than around Ideal. Here water was distributed in the morning and the nearby 5-star Temple Bay Resort had donated land for the new village. The fishermen were now asking for GPS equipment to be able to take their boats far out to sea.

In Chennai we went to an Italian restaurant for lunch. It was alright but almost everything on the menu contained egg products ): Afterwards we went to Spencer Plaza where the kids planned tomorrow's shopping.

No More Swimming

Although Pondicherry is a pleasant town with good restaurants there is not much to do for children. The beach is rocky and there is no swimmingpool. At first we thought about finding a beach place near the town but the one we looked at was pretty run down, and with many small sentient beings in the pool. Alice has developed an ear infection, probably from all the swimming and diving she did last week. Eventually we had to see a doctor. It was the same day as we were returning to Mamallapuram so it was a little stressful. The doctor spoke about the weather in Sweden and prescribed about five different drugs. It didn't cost much, though. We decided to use only the antibiotic ear drops and nasal drops. She is not feverish but disappointed about not being able to swim. The good place we stayed at last time was full so now we are staying in a budget place in the tourist ghetto street of the village, Othovadai Cross Street. The room is small but clean and has an AC. This time we will cut the visit short and return to Chennai on the 17th. Alice can still go shopping, and we can have some more time with Tsering.

It's a bit worrying with the security restrictions and delay for flights through Heathrow. But it seems like they are aiming to be back to normal in a couple of days. I hope we won't be stuck at Heathrow Airport on the 22nd.

Esbjorn finally found some Power Rangers toys. We bought one and it broke immediately- export quality! He was in tears, forcing me to repair it with a steel wire.

Pondy

Perhaps Pondicherry is not so interesting for children. It might not be interesting for anyone except those who appreciate India’s French colonial heritage. Unlike the British the French waited until another seven years until they pulled out of here. Still, Pondicherry did not become Indian but a so-called union territory. Even though most of the town is distinctively Indian these days it appears more orderly than the normal mid-size Indian city. It’s very hot during the day maybe over +35°C. No rain (I spoke to Tenzin today and it was raining in Bylakuppe). Down by the sea front is the old French quarter that has been gentrified to house quite a number of French expats. There are a number of good restaurants serving French inspired menus as well. To Esbjorn’s delight his favorite bread- baguettes- are readily available. We are staying in a discreet and small guesthouse called ”Colonial Heritage”. Not very imaginative but it’s a good search catcher on the web. As the name suggests it’s an old colonial house. The rooms have antique furniture and our room (Le Studio) even has a big swing in front of the bed. A silent AC makes the night bearable. We haven’t really done anything yet except walking to the GPO. We have four unbooked days coming up soon but haven’t decided where to go. Most likely it will be beach before temple but where?

Rocks on Crocs

Visited the Crocodile Bank yesterday. It’s a crocodile breeding farm set up by an American zoologist in the 70’s. The kids were thrilled to see hundreds of crocs from all over the world, the most massive being the saltwater crocodile (Jaws III). It looked like a small size dinosaur! Educational signs told visitors not to throw rocks on the crocs (!) to get their attention, and not to stick their hands inside. It did not stop Anna from putting her arm in to point at some frogs. Luckily the crocs were on the other side. They look dead lying in the sand but have the capacity to jump up and gallop across the ground. There was also a snake venom extraction cooperative that provides venom for serum manufacturing. Some snake cooperative guys were displaying the venomous sankes of this area: Cobra, Russell’s Viper, Krait and a saw patterened kind. The snakes were kept in ceramic pots and a smallish snake esacped and approached the unknowing handler. The kids were alarmed but the guy just swept it away.

Alice has been taking a lot of photographs with her own analogue camera but yesterday some plastic parts in the lens broke. It was the end of it.

The past few days have been a traditional beach holiday but tomorrow we are off to Pondicherry, a fomer French colony. The area is also known for the spiritual communities in Auroville (Sri Aurobindo and the Mother). From one bubble to another. But it will be achange in food and the beer is cheap.

Rock Temple Tour

Did the rock temple tour today. It was hot, maybe around +35-40 degrees celsius, and even the hawkers were pretty low key. As far as I understand, most of the rock temples and other stuff was made for advertising purposes around the end of the 6th century AD. The sculptors carved up most of the rock surfaces around town to display their skills to temple building buyers. Even today Mahallipuram is producing art for Hindu temples all over the world. Went to a French restaurant for lunch. Just a little swimming today. Too much sun yesterday made us all red like boiled crayfish (it's the crayfish season in Sweden so it's only fitting).

Southbound

An hour’s southbound drive from Chennai on the ”Scenic East Coast Toll Road” took us to Ideal Beach Resort run by the ”price winning tea planter and hotel owner from Sri Lanka”, Mr Dharmalingam (he’s waiting to hear from us). In the distance, almost like a mirage, the famous shore temple of Mahaballipuram seems to ride on the waves of the Bay of Bengal. Ideal is a truly self-contained resort with little integration with the surrounding fishing villages. This area was severely hit by the Tsunami but inside the resort there are no traces or reminders of it. The rooms are big and airy, and very good value for the money. On the other hand the signboards at the straw-mat village huts and the fishing boats are painted with promotional brand names of various foreign and domestic NGO’s contributing to the relief and rehabilitation. The resort property stretches all the way down to the sea and occasionally villagers will position themselves along the property line flashing various merchandise, hoping that a tourist will make an effort to leave the hammock and shop. Having said that, the place is comfortable, well-run and relaxing although the service can be very slow and sometimes hard to employ. During the monsoon the sea does not lend itself to swimming with a strong surf and under currents. But there is a good swimming pool where the kids spend most of their time. So far the weather has been good. Mahaballipuram is famous for its stone sculpturing craftsmen, a profession that that seems to go back a couple of milleniums in the history of this village. Some of the most famous rock sculptures in India are found here but we have yet to admire them. It’s six kilometres away and to far for the kids to walk.

Saw a great brand name intrusion in an ad in today’s Deccan Chronicle: ”Bigapple brand new Intel computers, from Rs 6 995/-”, a bad version of the first iMacs., and a decade too late!

Chennai Diner

Spent the day at Chennai’s prime shopping mall, Spencer Plaza where we bought some clothes and a bigger suitcase. Tsering had an exam in the morning but joined us later. Alice was feeling a bit sick after the long trainride from Mysore the day before. She had motion sickness and didn’t really eat anything. After Tsering turned up she seemed to feel a lot better. Our hotel, New Woodlands, is an old-time Indian style hotel feeling somewhat like an institution. The breakfast hall is pretty chaotic but works. The room is big and comparatively cheap for Chernnai. The only drawback is that the staff wants a tip for even the smallest effort. Many western tour groups are staying here. Yesterday there were busloads of them who had come with ”Oneness University” which is a pretty clear statement about the sales pitch. Our room is an ”Executive double” with a businessman’s kit including some paper clips and rubber bands. Perhaps Basil Fawlty has been the consultant? In the evening we went to Sparky’s Diner, an American restaurant serving only American food. The food was good but Esbjorn got an allergic reaction from it. It was the first time since we came to India. The staff had assured us that they were not using egg products but it turned out that Sparky’s use the same oil for all the deep fried food including egg battered items. That’s enough to release Esbjorns allergy. He started coughing and sneezing and we gave him betapreds and some other prescription drugs. After a while he recovered a bit and we took a taxi back home. I suppose Tsering was a bit taken by the events and she had to go back to get some sleep before another exam the next day. Even though everything went well this time Esbjorns allergic reactions are nerve wrecking. Normally, we can avoid egg products by eating in so-called ”pure vegetarian” restaurants. New Woodlands is even a pure vegetarian hotel so no meat or animal products are allowed to enter.
In an hour we are off to the beach near Mahallapuram where we will be staying the next five days.

Farewell to Sera

It was a low key farewell with only Tenzin seeing us off from Sera. We stopped at the Representative's office on the way out from the settlement and said good-bye to the staff. The pain-in-the-ass bureaucrat controlling the key to the file cabinet apologized for being one. A couple of IB guys were there. The elder of the two asked if I know Subramanya. "Yes, he is the main researcher for our project in India and I'm helping him a little". "Be sure to give my regards to him", he said and shook my hand. Away we went in Nyima Tsering's Sumo. In Mysore we are staying at Metropole again. Esbjorn can't go swimming since he has an infected cut in a toe. He watches Power Rangers instead. We're leaving for Chennai on the train this afternoon. Should take about eight hours to get there.

Too Many Good-Byes

Our last day in the settlement. Too many good-byes. This is the end of my cooperation with our research assistant Thinley. It's been over a year I think. He has been fantatstic. He has a law degree from Bangalore University and now he will try and become a practising lawyer.

We had lunch at my friend Namgyal's house in "Mini-Swiss", the outsourced camp 4 village Purang. Namgyal works with agricultural development and has a whole gallery of low-tech inventions on display around his house. His parents came from southwestern Tibet in the eraly 60's. His mother had four children, two in the transit camp and two in the settlement, but all of them died at an early age. Later she had three more sons of which Namgyal is the youngest. She had made fabulous cheese and potato Momos for us. Alice ate a couple of boiled potatoes and Esbjorn had some popped rice (!).

Dorje, the so called RC-officer responsible for travel documents and registration at the Representatives Office, returned from Mysore where the settlement had been called to a meeting with the police. After they caught me in the office last week the cops went to all the guesthouses and seized their registers. It turned out that around 180 foreigners had stayed in the settlement without permit over the past six months. In addition, many tourists and visitors stay outside the settlement but go there during the day. But it's against the law to enter without a Protected Area Permit (PAP). I don't know why they are stepping up the enforcement. I don't really see anything here that needs to be protected. As permit holders we are supposed to sign out when we leave but we have decided to give it a miss.

Tonight I will walk my last Kora around Sera with Tenzin, at least for now.